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Cape Cod 2010 Highlights

In Food: American/Modern American, Food: Dessert/Ice Cream/Frozen Yogurt/Gelato, Food: Italian/Pizza, Food: Japanese/Sushi, Food: Seafood, Massachusetts: Cape Cod/Islands on August 12, 2010 at 11:00 PM

Times of change.

Laden with seafaring potential and New England bounty, at times the harvest delivered on Cape Cod doesn’t always match its geographic and human charms⎯even though it should.

From the area’s nutritious dirt, fertile for agriculture of all casts; its waters, perfect for stocks of fish, mollusks and crustaceans; and its chronicled fabric of colonial American, Portuguese, Italian and French Canadian pedigrees, Cape Cod should already be sucking on a silver spoon. In some cornered aspects it is, though with research. To the majority of lacquered tourists in fact, who flock to the seaside peninsula and islands each summer, I know they sure think it is. To genuine food lovers though, initial novelties of clam chowder, fried clams, lobster rolls and mom-and-pop homemade ice cream shops can all-too-often fade into gluey, chewy, overcooked and sweet beyond repair. One can paralyze quickly with this repeated cycle of gut-busting monotony. Food-wise Cape Cod as a region hasn’t always lived up to its inherent, God-given potential. Most gratefully, in the past 3-5 years however, things seem to be slowly evolving.

Smarter, sharper restaurants have begun sprouting, finally allowing the fantasy of a genuinely satisfying meal⎯after your tenth night of fried, fried and fried⎯not seem the stretch it had any longer. After spending ample summers on the Cape for the better part of the last decade, I’ve decided to expose a little run-down of such eye-openers. Albeit brief (and by no means comprehensive), the list below should help direct any visiting food enthusiast, wary of the generic trappings of stale Cape Cod eating, to brighter horizons. If for nothing else, to set off on sound footing.

Lobster, among other things, risotto. Mac's Shack.

Wellfleet's eponymous creatures. Mac's Shack.

Mac’s Shack: (Wellfleet, MA)
Upscale, bustling cousin of the Mac’s Seafood Co.’s family of salty establishments, Mac’s Shack delivers a full sushi bar, a manned raw bar and a rotating, seasonal roster of forward-leaning menu items⎯energetic, regional fare with refreshing worldly framings. The sushi product itself is indeed some of the best found anywhere on the Cape (though not exactly a tight race due to lacking local inventory to begin with), and the outdoor bar area alone is lively and optimal for people watching, full of polite but posing WASP-y mugs⎯pretension tailored enough to be tolerable, but after a second glass of wine, nearly enjoyable. Ordered notables on my most recent visit: briny oysters; lobster risotto, rich with local corn, oyster mushrooms and mascarpone; and, a hefty crab cake, layered atop a spicy bacon and corn salsa, and a brush of chive cream.

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Now Open: Nobuo At Teeter

In Food: Japanese/Sushi, Food: Pan-Asian, Media, Phoenix: Downtown, Restaurant News and Gossip, Reviews on August 9, 2010 at 7:17 PM

Lunch listings.

James Beard-rendered chef Nobuo Fukuda (“Best Chef Southwest,” 2007) returned to form last month, reengaging with a new Downtown eatery in historic Heritage Square, Nobuo at Teeter House. Concluding an anxious absence from the public’s regard since his previous gig at eulogized Scottsdale restaurant Sea Saw ended last June, Fukuda has been patiently amassing momentum in our shadows⎯dabbling in freelance cookery and related consulting at other restaurants around town (NOCA and Welcome Diner, come to mind)⎯waiting for an opportune moment. Well, fog cleared⎯such a fortuitous moment is upon us.

More relaxed than Sea Saw, Nobuo at Teeter House is not intended to be a straightforward copy of his former home. Still aiming for that surgical boundary between strict Japanese execution and the more limitless horizon of western sensibilities, expect a more relaxed roster of largely sharable menu items in this foodly vein⎯cross-Asian influences with near-obscure modern American undercurrents. Evocative of blue-collar taverns that also serve legit regional comfort food throughout Japan⎯izakaya⎯prepare for an atmosphere lacking vanity, pushing an understated, communal spirit.

Nobuo at Teeter House is now open for both lunch and dinner service, and in the coming weeks and months, Fukuda will re-introduce his once infamous omakase (chef’s choice) dining experience for select guests each night, by reservation only. A full menu of wine, beer and sake, also available. Full-throttle tea selection and pairings to come.

For a more in-depth feature on Nobuo at Teeter House by yours truly (including added details, menu highlights and photos) in the Downtown Phoenix Journal, go HERE.

Nobuo at Teeter House | nobuofukuda.com | 622 E. Adams St | 602-254-0600 | Downtown Phoenix

Nobuo at Teeter House on Urbanspoon

Grub Love: “Sapporo Ichiban Chow Mein”

In Cooking, Food: Japanese/Sushi, Grub Love, Personal Ramblings on May 6, 2009 at 1:39 PM

This week’s honor starts with a discovery I made very young.

My grandmother Lena (mother’s side) grew up on a small Kansas dairy farm during the Great Depression. A timely (or untimely?) result of this childhood, her penny-pinching scruples were notorious. Unless a particular occasion was deemed special, she was militant about keeping food costs to the minimum.

Unfortunately, this was an admirable financial trait never adopted by her grandson.

When my grandparents eventually moved to Arizona several decades ago, being exposed to the vast and diverse offerings of our much-larger supermarkets (in comparison to rural Kansas at the time), Lena fell in love with one exotic item in particular⎯cheap, instant ramen noodles.

Lena had a stubborn, “Midwestern palate,” but quickly became a fan of the pre-cooked Japanese noodles. In fact, she would purchase them by the basket full.

This was not only my own first exposure to ramen, but also to the suburban world’s cult reaction to the budget-friendly eats (read: buying oversized quantities and hording).

Every Tuesday after school was ‘visit grandparents day’. My mother would leave work early and drag me to my grandparents house for an afternoon of naggy chit-chat, Wheel of Fortune and, of course, an early evening “snack” of instant ramen.

Needless to say, ramen noodles were definitely the afternoon’s highlight. Most kids received candy or baked goods when they visited grandma’s house⎯I got a bowl of ramen.

In fact, some of my very first memories of cooking at all were on those said Tuesdays, sitting atop my grandmother’s favorite green-padded kitchen stool, watching and helping her prepare my ramen noodle soup. Which, at the time, I considered a very complex preparation.

Fast forward a decade or two, my love of instant ramen noodles was starting to wane a bit. I became bored with them. Not because they weren’t fundamentally good, but my palate had since matured⎯I craved more bang for my cooking efforts.

One lazy day, browsing the grocery store several years ago, I stumbled upon my current instant-noodle love: Sapporo Ichiban’s Japanese Style Noodles Chow Mein (there has to be a more efficient name).

Though these are not ramen noodles (think yakisoba), they tend to fall into the same breed of foods. Packaged identically, they are both dried, instant, pre-cooked Japanese-style noodles.

Unlike traditional instant ramen, which is intended to be a soup, these yakisoba-style noodles require little cooking water. The individual packages also include additional, more complex flavoring components, as opposed to what is essentially just packets of dried stock with the ramen variety. Overall, the finished product is more pan-fried side dish, than ramen’s more brothy, soupy example.

In my own pantry, this item has become a considerable player in my often hectic cooking rotations. Though my grandmother Lena ultimately never instilled her budget-friendly food tenets in me, her large stockpiling and frequent usage of these instant noodles have been adopted wholeheartedly.

For cooking, mix in left-over proteins, varieties of seafood, or go strictly vegetarian. These noodles can provide an empty canvass for creating a very satisfying dish, particularly when time constraints don’t always allow for more creativity.

During moments of post-work inertia, a generic, consistent and comforting favorite of mine is stir-frying pre-prepared noodles with drips of sesame oil, soy sauce and Sriracha, folding in handfuls of crushed peanuts, raw bean sprouts, sliced scallions and rips of pineapple. Feeling golden, I will have prepared a lazy, well-rounded dish that feeds the stomach gracefully.

Thanks grandma.

My next GL award goes to these instant noodles of a very long, unnecessary name. Again, just think instant yakisoba and you’ll be just fine.

Sushi Downtown? Finally.

In Food: Japanese/Sushi, Food: Pan-Asian, Phoenix: Downtown, Restaurant News and Gossip on April 21, 2009 at 10:42 AM

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In what seems to have been the only breed of restaurant to actually avoid Downtown over the past few decades, the ever-maturing culinary landscape of the area might finally be bearing some genuine fruit. No longer are Downtown or Midtown diners relegated to twenty-minute drives to Scottsdale, Tempe or north Phoenix for worthy sushi (Hana probably being the only, nearest exception), there is finally relief nearby.

Picture the exuberant grin running across my face.

Located on the ground floor of the fairly new lofts at 215 E. McKinley, Moira Sushi is staking its claim. Like comparable sushi restaurants in other parts of town, the atmosphere is modern and pleasing, aesthetically. Though Moira doesn’t have a physical bar area in which to patronize individually, they do have a full liquor license and robust cocktail list. Beyond raw seafood, the restaurant also offers a very strong menu of “hot” items.

I’ve only eaten there once so far, and it was just before closing. I definitely plan to again in the coming weeks after becoming interested with my initial experience (food, atmosphere, service). A formal review to come.

In the meantime, Moira is not only a promising new Downtown haunt–it’s a promising new Downtown haunt that serves sushi. It’s independent, it has character–support it folks, and spread the word. If we all do our part, owners plan to keep Moira open until 2am daily.

Talk about blasphemy. This is still sun-down bed-time Downtown we’re talking about here, right?

Moira Sushi | moirasushi.com | 215 E. McKinley | Downtown Phoenix | 602-254-5085

Moira Sushi on Urbanspoon

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