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Archive for the ‘Grub Love’ Category

Grub Love: Pane Bianco’s MTB Sandwich

In Food: Italian/Pizza, Food: Sandwiches/Salads, Grub Love, Phoenix: Midtown, Reviews on April 24, 2011 at 7:54 AM

Chris Bianco is very talented, we know. Slinging those iconic golden pies for the unyielding masses (almost) every night, the James Beard Award-wining chef’s notorious work ethic at his fabled Pizzeria Bianco has never seemed anything south of remarkable.

At Bianco’s sharper and more accessible cousin Pane Bianco, the chef manages to parlay his drive for the perfectly tailored pizza–an intuitive ratio of inspiration, meticulous ingredients and masterful execution–into one of the best sandwich shops in the city.

One of my absolutes at Pane Bianco is their peerless mozzarella, tomato and basil sandwich. Buttery, handmade buffalo mozzarella makes face time with minty basil and ripe, glossy tomatoes (both of which are house-grown), all gently pressed between doughy rounds of Bianco’s fine-tuned ciabatta-lite bread, blistered briefly in the kitchen’s sizable wood-burning oven. It’s Bianco’s nuanced skill, stockpiled for our effortless consumption.

Not one player shines brighter than its neighbor–the endgame of all moving parts; an education in simplicity done right.

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This edible affair is not monogamous, however. For my ode to Pane Bianco’s tuna sandwich (and dreamy rice pudding) in the Downtown Phoenix Journal, go HERE.

Pane Bianco | 4404 N. Central Ave | 602-234-2100 | Midtown Phoenix

Pane Bianco on Urbanspoon

Grub Love: Hot Dogs

In Cooking, Food: Hot Dogs, Grub Love, Personal Ramblings on May 22, 2009 at 12:17 PM
mydog6

A recent roadside pit-stop in Hannagan Meadow, AZ.

Don’t call it a comeback.

Suffice to say, it’s due time these tasty little sausages received some extra love and attention. Our burger-dominated world has all but suffocated the hot dog.

Now relegated to the back corners of questionable delicatessens, urban food carts, stadium takeaway, and being the go-to quick fix for soccer moms galore, hot dogs have taken a virtual back seat in our ever-evolving culinary consciousness.

Don’t feed me bullshit about how you don’t eat hot dogs because they might contain varied, surly pig parts, or how you “don’t eat pork,” when you honestly have no religious convictions against it.

Food shouldn’t be scary. So, get over it.

I personally prefer myself a pork filled casing, and there should be no excuses to the contrary. Without being laboriously professorial, pork hot dogs are okay to eat, and in fact, are often substantially more flavorful than other meat varieties.

Trust me, try one.

Pork aside however, from franks all-beef, to those kosher, turkey and veggie, there is still no reason the downtrodden hot dog shouldn’t (or couldn’t) be as popular or “trendy” as their fellow ground and bunned rivals.

In an era where gourmet burger bars are the ultimate in trend-dom, it’s sad to see hot dogs continually placed on the proverbial back shelf of Americana. Hot dogs can be just as white collar.

As a little Justin who ate, I grew up on the real deal. Though in the beginning I admit that I liked my links “plain, with ketchup only please,” I have since evolved into a full-blown wiener disciple.

Hot dog talk, don’t get excited.

Sonoran Hot Dog (El Guero Canelo, Tucson, AZ)

The perfect frankfurter should have a firm casing that gives a light snap when you bite into it, and a rush of smoky, sweet and salty as you ingest it.

Personally, I love everything on my dog. Mayo, mustard, ketchup, chunky dills, onions, sauerkraut, hot sauce, you name it – I’ll top it, eat it and love it.

Politically, I also equally support our country’s most prominent regionals. It can be a Chicagoan, a thickly frank covered in a variety of chunky, hearty accoutrements, the more sparely topped, thin and extra-long New York version, or the ever-growing Arizona contribution to the national hot dog scene: the Sonoran Dog. Always wrapped in bacon, held in soft bread and smothered to your heart’s delight with, among many possible variables, spicy, roasted peppers, chopped onion, pinto beans and drizzles of glossy mayo. Seriously heaven-sent.

I also love a good chili dog – extra spicy, with a heaping blend of ground meat, onions and kidney beans, touch of mustard underneath, and smothered with cheddar on top.

I’ve expanded my borders across the Pacific, going slightly Asian, with a touch of good Chinese mustard, scallions and a lengthy drizzle of Sriracha.

Like I’ve always contested, gluttony as a cardinal sin needs revisiting.

Without further hesitation, for sheer versatility alone, I hearby bestow the homely hot dog as ultimate GL.

May it hold its head high, rising from its lowly social castings, and re-take its rightful place in our culinary heritage.

Hot Dog on FoodistaHot Dog

Grub Love: “Sapporo Ichiban Chow Mein”

In Cooking, Food: Japanese/Sushi, Grub Love, Personal Ramblings on May 6, 2009 at 1:39 PM

This week’s honor starts with a discovery I made very young.

My grandmother Lena (mother’s side) grew up on a small Kansas dairy farm during the Great Depression. A timely (or untimely?) result of this childhood, her penny-pinching scruples were notorious. Unless a particular occasion was deemed special, she was militant about keeping food costs to the minimum.

Unfortunately, this was an admirable financial trait never adopted by her grandson.

When my grandparents eventually moved to Arizona several decades ago, being exposed to the vast and diverse offerings of our much-larger supermarkets (in comparison to rural Kansas at the time), Lena fell in love with one exotic item in particular⎯cheap, instant ramen noodles.

Lena had a stubborn, “Midwestern palate,” but quickly became a fan of the pre-cooked Japanese noodles. In fact, she would purchase them by the basket full.

This was not only my own first exposure to ramen, but also to the suburban world’s cult reaction to the budget-friendly eats (read: buying oversized quantities and hording).

Every Tuesday after school was ‘visit grandparents day’. My mother would leave work early and drag me to my grandparents house for an afternoon of naggy chit-chat, Wheel of Fortune and, of course, an early evening “snack” of instant ramen.

Needless to say, ramen noodles were definitely the afternoon’s highlight. Most kids received candy or baked goods when they visited grandma’s house⎯I got a bowl of ramen.

In fact, some of my very first memories of cooking at all were on those said Tuesdays, sitting atop my grandmother’s favorite green-padded kitchen stool, watching and helping her prepare my ramen noodle soup. Which, at the time, I considered a very complex preparation.

Fast forward a decade or two, my love of instant ramen noodles was starting to wane a bit. I became bored with them. Not because they weren’t fundamentally good, but my palate had since matured⎯I craved more bang for my cooking efforts.

One lazy day, browsing the grocery store several years ago, I stumbled upon my current instant-noodle love: Sapporo Ichiban’s Japanese Style Noodles Chow Mein (there has to be a more efficient name).

Though these are not ramen noodles (think yakisoba), they tend to fall into the same breed of foods. Packaged identically, they are both dried, instant, pre-cooked Japanese-style noodles.

Unlike traditional instant ramen, which is intended to be a soup, these yakisoba-style noodles require little cooking water. The individual packages also include additional, more complex flavoring components, as opposed to what is essentially just packets of dried stock with the ramen variety. Overall, the finished product is more pan-fried side dish, than ramen’s more brothy, soupy example.

In my own pantry, this item has become a considerable player in my often hectic cooking rotations. Though my grandmother Lena ultimately never instilled her budget-friendly food tenets in me, her large stockpiling and frequent usage of these instant noodles have been adopted wholeheartedly.

For cooking, mix in left-over proteins, varieties of seafood, or go strictly vegetarian. These noodles can provide an empty canvass for creating a very satisfying dish, particularly when time constraints don’t always allow for more creativity.

During moments of post-work inertia, a generic, consistent and comforting favorite of mine is stir-frying pre-prepared noodles with drips of sesame oil, soy sauce and Sriracha, folding in handfuls of crushed peanuts, raw bean sprouts, sliced scallions and rips of pineapple. Feeling golden, I will have prepared a lazy, well-rounded dish that feeds the stomach gracefully.

Thanks grandma.

My next GL award goes to these instant noodles of a very long, unnecessary name. Again, just think instant yakisoba and you’ll be just fine.

Grub Love: Frozen Peas

In Cooking, Grub Love, Personal Ramblings on May 1, 2009 at 1:07 PM

Frozen Sweet Peas

I know what many of you might say. Any self-respecting food nerd would gasp at the idea of using frozen vegetables.

Well, I cannot wait to disagree. I am coming out of the snob closet for my favorite frozen treat⎯peas. While I will agree that the vast glut of vegetables in our markets’ frozen food aisles are of depleted quality, frozen peas have time and time again, won over my frozen, green heart.

Betty Crocker no longer rules the dinner table, and we need not avoid these icy beads any more. Never again must we be relegated to those mealy, re-stimulated and often grossly under-seasoned versions we all grew up tormented by. I’m not your psychiatrist, but it’s okay to eat peas once frozen again.

More-so than for simply taste (because I know fresh are inherently superior), for sheer versatility alone, frozen peas are my kitchen’s number-one staple food item. If I were to write a cookbook someday (you know, over that rainbow), I would begin with one of those clichéd lists of my top five or ten recommended food items to always keep stocked in your pantry or fridge. You know, like the basics⎯quality olive oil, kosher salt, coarse pepper, blah, blah, blah, but also: packages of frozen peas.

Frozen Peas

These toothy green pearls will save for the ages, and can participate in almost any dish. They can equally help finish an otherwise boring meal, turning it into something much more gratifying.

Best of all, peas are ethnically blind. Besides being an underrated side (* don’t overcook and under-season folks) to a-many ubiquitous American meat-and-potato dinnertime constructs⎯as well as dedicated players in soups and stews⎯I constantly add them to stir-frys, pasta dishes and Mexican spreads alike. We’re talking worldly little balls.

Again, it goes without mention that fresh organic peas are always preferred. In a pinch however, I don’t often have the time (and the resulting patience) to de-pod a heap of peas every time I cook. Having a stockpile of the frozen version on hand, at all times, ensures that taste, variety and convenience cannot all be entirely, and mutually exclusive.

Without further adieu, my first GL (Grub Love) award goes to those sweet frozen peas.

Frozen Peas

Green Peas on FoodistaGreen Peas

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