Exterior presentation.

More FnB. I know, right?

In the hurried realm of blogging, “hiatus” is profane terminology. Equally toxic are the countless half-started, unpublished posts that continually pile up, likely never to reach the light of existence. I have so many.

Thankfully however, an old writing spell with FnB couldn’t remain suppressed any longer. After umpteen glorious features both in the media–locally and nationally (hello, NYT)–and among the growing crowd of fellow local food bloggers, the fact that I still hadn’t revisited my own favorable FnB experience(s) became a cry increasingly too loud to ignore.

I’ve now had the pleasure of eating at FnB on multiple occasions in the fairly brief time the new restaurant has been open. Where frequently a new spot of similar aim takes time to truly hit its stride, FnB seems to have bypassed many of the common, initial shortfalls that have bemoaned many of its contemporaries before it. In fact, not since NOCA (and yes, a few others) has a new Phoenix area restaurant generated so much palpable, critical buzz within the local food community in such a short period of time. Mind you, the restaurant has only been open a few months, yet already feels like it has been for years.

Taking food out of the equation for brief moment, FnB owes a substantial part of its mounting allure to its cheerleader and all around soul, owner Pavle Milic. By now, anyone who pays even the slightest ounce of attention to local restaurant chatter has heard this man’s name echoed around town. With a local managing resumé that includes Prado and the now plundered Digestif, Pavle’s charisma and very-present confidence reads like a respectful, welcoming next door neighbor. Part guide, part headlining server, Milic makes the rounds–table-to-table–ensuring all of his customers are as captivated by their first course as they are their last.

Plans of attack.

The kitchen is helmed by determined duo Charleen Badman (co-owner and head chef; past resumé includes Rancho Pinot) and her handy sous Sacha Levine. To say these two focused, ever-so grounded women are simply talented would be to make a grossly undervalued declaration.

The physical space itself, once the address of Nobuo Fukuda’s legendary eatery Sea Saw, briefly also provided shelter for Digestif’s short-lived relocation (a relocation that should have never occurred in the first place). With what seemed like a hurried change-over at the time, one might have thought FnB to be yet another half-ass regurgitation of another old Kasperski favorite; the next in a surgically premeditated line of stylish new restaurant concepts. One might be further from the truth.

Lets put it this way: if FnB hasn’t hit its stride yet, this entire city is in for a genuine dining triumph. Something magical is happening here, and the cynic in myself has managed to remain at bay. When talking about FnB, the border between high praise and hyperbole becomes increasingly blurred.

The focus of FnB is obviously on the food. From its industry jargon-inspired salutation “FnB” (food and beverage, folks), its seemingly effortless service and uncluttered decor, to its off-centered island kitchen protruding into the middle of the “efficient” dining space, the food is directed to be our full attention.

Much like Sea Saw before it, the dining bar surrounding said island kitchen is easily the restaurant’s prime real estate. From local food socialites to casual diners alike, the horseshoe bar has become known front-row territory for those not merely looking for the most interactive and stimulating dining experience to be had, but for those looking for the most conspicuously visible as well.

Yes, the food. Lightly (and incredibly controversially) referred to as a “gastropub” by some in the local food community–despite its still evolving but limited selection of brews–FnB confidently serves premium quality, casually modern American food (local and or organic whenever possible) in a lively and intentionally straight-forward atmosphere. The food is simultaneously homespun and forward, executed with a relaxed sensibility. It’s an accumulation only a few local restaurants can deliver so successfully.

Built largely around the idea of sharing, the majority of FnB’s menu exists as a ride to sample more. If you visit the restaurant preferring to navigate the staid appetizer-entree-dessert dining construct, you may be missing out on the breadth of satisfaction FnB can offer–most especially if you don’t happen to dine out with much consistency, let alone with dedicated repetition.

Shaved fennel and citrus. Arizona-grown.

Green apple salad.

With a menu that is tweaked often (changes and updates have been seen to occur within days of each other), FnB also provides an experience that can be enjoyed frequently without burnout. It’s a neighborhood dining venue intended to be patronized often. And, not just by tourists and those seeking to satisfy a special event. There are no gimmicks here, no condescension or pandering to our cheapest dining desires, just a decidedly high-brow product and experience wrapped in an honest package.

Of the smaller plates (running from $4-13), there were several standouts. One in particular–and one that equally seems to be an audience favorite–is the braised leeks, crowned in house-made mozzarella, mustard bread crumbs and the eternally easy-sell: a fried egg. Reporting about this even now, the overtly simple yet perfectly executed dish, my stomach growls. My only complaint? I’d add a second egg.

Green tomatoes. Definitely fried.

Romanesco cauliflower.

Other examples of what I’d simply call delicious: the country ham plate–paper-thin sheets of the meat accompanied with fans of sharp cheddar, a heady mustard and a variety of snacking vegetables pickled in-house; fried rock shrimp with a deserved condiment of jalapeno tartar; roasted romanesco cauliflower (often called romanesco broccoli as well; tastes like a cousin of both) soaked in a herb-friendly salsa verde; firm fried green tomatoes covered in feta crumbs and a green goddess dressing; spigarello (think purebred broccoli-rabe but less bitter), faintly pan-charred, with chili and garlic; and a sublime example of what is often a common restaurant standby these days: the shaved fennel salad. Their presentation of said shavings are intermixed with a routinely updated variety of Arizona-grown citrus (orange, grapefruit, etc.), and a welcoming ration of bitter radishes and salty green olives thrown in for good measure. This dish in particular is a great illustration of how the quality of individual ingredients alone can elevate an otherwise ordinary dish so dramatically.

So simple, so confident.

Larger plates ($18-27), equally worthy of sharing: a jidori chicken (uncaged, free-ranging birds absent of chemicals, never frozen) roasted skin-crisp with young garlic, atop doughy spaetzle (tiny pan-fried dumplings) and wild mushrooms; a heaping lamb tenderloin, grilled exactly, served with potatoes, artichokes, olives and mint; and an example of trout, butter-soft, dressed with caramelized onions, sunchokes and fresh dill.

Jidori chicken.

There is an equally updated and rotating selection of desserts perfect for sugary post-meal group therapy. One such standout at the time was a thinly rich, cake-like bread pudding constructed from Ben Hershberger’s (the Phoenician’s acclaimed former baker extraordinaire, soon to be new such guru for Thomas Keller in NYC) locally notorious chocolate-cherry sourdough bread. There was also the clafouti (sweet pancake-like batter, usually molded with fruit), a terrificly light and spongy copy, with tart berries.

Chocolate-cherry, sourdough bread pudding.

Clafouti, my friends.

Though all too often an unforgettable dessert option at many restaurants (unfortunately), FnB happens to serve a nearly sinister crème brûlée–a version bolstered in flavor by meyer lemon shine, and well, the depth of thyme. Each ramekin of sugar-layered custard is burnt not by the modern gadgetry of kitchen blow torches or broilers, but by the quaintly other-era method of a crème brûlée iron–a gangly, crooked instrument to be exact–which sits patiently, blistering hot all night, waiting to toast the next order.

Burnt cream.

If you’re like myself (and many of my close companions), a worthy cocktail, brew, or glass of wine, can also all exist as a barometer of a well-executed dining experience. Perfectly crafted and inspired specialty cocktails exist as refreshing as they are, well, sometimes useful. Beloved personal standouts include the ginhound (gin, grapefruit juice and mint) and the cranberry Presbyterian (cranberry-infused vodka, lemon juice and ginger ale).

Ginhound, please.

Cranberry Presbyterian.

As a proud native Zonie in particular, I would be remise not to give a shout (I mean, everyone else has) to their wine and beer offerings. All of which are sourced entirely within the state–the sole exception being a Blanc de Noir sparkling via New Mexico’s famous house of Gruet. Yes, the Land of Enchantment can hang with the cool kids too.

On Friday and Saturday nights after 10pm, FnB has become a particularly well-haunted venue for loyal FnB patrons and local industry herds. Offering impromptu (and often very diverse) nightly specials.

Can’t complain there, either.

FnB | fnbrestaurant.com | 7133 W. Stetson Dr | Downtown Scottsdale | 480-425-9463 (reservations accepted)

* Photog footnote: Please excuse lacking quality of pictures. It is not one of my–or my camera’s–strongest talents.

Update 03/16/2010: For a post weekend wrap-up of Devoured by yours truly in the Downtown Phoenix Journal, go HERE.

Despite the many internal controversies within our community’s food brethren as a result of its official shakeup last year, the once effortlessly respectable (and popular) West of Western culinary festival is simply no more. In its place however, a newly annual springtime food event is being prepped for its freshman debut, bringing with it a decidedly updated focus and intention.

Labeled Devoured Phoenix Culinary Classic, the freshly minted food fest is being orchestrated indirectly by the amplifying homegrown lobbying/PR organization Local First AZ (community booster du jour and entrepreneur Kimber Lanning is a headlining force), and will remain hosted at the Phoenix Art Museum.

Though there are definite exceptions to the principals’ intentions, the affair will be a sharper, more agenda-driven celebration of all things locally and independently edible. In particular, it is (casually) intended as a weighted showcase of restaurants throughout central Phoenix specifically–Downtown, Midtown, etc.

Taking place this weekend, Saturday March 13th and Sunday March 14th, from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., the event is largely being held outdoors within the art museum’s courtyard. Devoured is currently listing over 70 local restaurants and 25 different wineries among its roster of participants. There will also be a variety of cooking demonstrations and food-related seminars.

Single day and two-day passes are $65 and $90, respectively. $75 for a single day pass day-of. Already a museum member? I’m not. However if you are, inquire about passes with the museum directly, as there is a discounted members-only rate.

For more information, to purchase said passes, as well as peruse the itemized listing of involved restaurants and wineries, go: HERE. (phxart.org/devoured)

For lack of a more clever moniker, I’m branding recently accumulated bullet-points under “Justin’s Roundup.” This will be the first such post of many like it to come, as an efficient way to relay pressing tidbits constantly amassing with more brevity. Think of it as a routine newsletter. Sort of. Here goes:

• Details are flowing in about Hillside Spot, the new gourmet specialty market and casual eatery in Ahwatukee (NWC 48th St. and Warner) helmed by the ever-controlled Gallo Blanco chef Doug Robson and former Olive & Ivy alumn Patrick Fegan. Located in the space vacated by the Coffee Plantation a couple of years ago, Hillside Spot currently serves breakfast and lunch, with a dinner menu being added in 2010.

• Five Guys’ first of two introductory Arizona locations is currently under construction on Mill Avenue in Tempe, inside a renovated space vacated by former java institution the Coffee Plantation. Expect the subsequent second location also in development to debut in Mesa, at Dana Park. After that, an eventual 40-50 locations are planned statewide. Gulp. My original story, go HERE.

• Smashburger’s first Arizona location is also currently under construction in Tempe, near University Drive and College Avenue. Opening date has been confirmed: Friday, October 2nd. Original story, go HERE.

• Downtown’s Public Market is close to unveiling its latest growth spurt next month with the Urban Grocery and Wine Bar. Opening tentatively set for the second or third week in October. For more in-depth info and pics by yours truly in the Downtown Phoenix Journal, go HERE.

• Royal at the Market, a stylish, pocket-sized coffee shop brought to us by some of the same principals behind the noble (and slightly larger) Royal Coffee Bar on Jackson St., just south of Downtown. Owners are hoping for a quiet, individual opening sometime in the next two weeks. For more in-depth info and pics by yours truly in the Downtown Phoenix Journal, go HERE. Update 10/05/2009: Royal at the Market is now open!

• As previously mentioned, Hula’s Modern Tiki in Midtown is now open. For more in-depth info and pics by yours truly in the Downtown Phoenix Journal, go HERE.

• St. Francis quietly opened its doors to the public last week, and I was there opening night. For more in-depth info and pics by yours truly in the Downtown Phoenix Journal, go HERE.

• The annual Arizona Restaurant Week begins this Saturday, Sept. 19th. With even more worthy eateries throughout Phoenix (and Tucson) added to the list this year, make reservations now. Every participating restaurant offers a unique three-course tasting menu, priced $29 per person, or $58 per couple. Folks, that’s a deal.

• Nobuo Fukuda continues his confidential sorting of Midtown real estate for his much anticipated, still as-yet-untitled new Japanese eatery. As many already know, his previous restaurant, Scottsdale’s nationally acclaimed Sea Saw, shuttered this past June. Since that unfortunate hemorrhage fans in the interim are being blessed with the chef’s freelance work. Notably, the recent dining event he hosted at Downtown’s Welcome Diner, and an upcoming gig at NOCA later this month. Expect the location of his new Midtown eatery to be publicly announced soon.

• Need new reasons to support local, independent restaurants? Check out the latest statewide campaign Dine 4 AZ.

• Adventurous local chef Matt Carter (Zinc Bistro, The Misson) humbly opened his new Downtown venture last month, the upscale Asian restaurant Nine|05, in a completely re-imagined indoor-outdoor space. Let the misinformation and remaining confusion end now—this restaurant’s concept, menu, décor and atmosphere are all new, unique, and completely unrelated to the location’s previous occupant: Fate, chef Johnny Chu’s once-loved Asian bistro which shuttered a month prior (those “fatefully” sentimental can find the venerable Chu down the street at his subsequent concept Sens).

• Remaining open during construction, Sanctuary Resort’s trophy restaurant Elements (Executive Chef Beau MacMillan) finally began its planned renovation and expansion last month. To be completed by this winter, highlights include: new kitchen almost entirely exposed to the main dining room, a new bar area for solo diners (and parties wanting front-row seating to the kitchen’s action), and, thanks to the added feature of new floor-to-ceiling, folding glass windows surrounding the main dining space, a reconfigured indoor-outdoor experience will exist for patrons during Phoenix’s more pleasurably-weathered months.

• Precious, quirky independent candy shop Smeeks finally opened in late July on Midtown’s northern fringe. Brought to us by the same owners of neighboring Frances clothing boutique, Smeeks is located along the same commerical strip facing Camelback Rd., barely west of Central Ave.

• Do you remember Justin’s Grub of the Week? Yeah, me either. My weekly designation of foods loved and adored will be revisited in brief time. Does somebody smell burnt popcorn?

• New reviews, previews and impressions coming soon of 25 Degrees, Metro Brasserie, St. Francis (more in-depth coverage) and Postino Central.

(Thanks for reading. Stay tuned for more.)

Update 09/28/2009: Hula’s is now open. Menu available HERE. For my opening night preview in Downtown Phoenix Journal, go HERE.

For those already mid-century inclined, the slow but steady revival of Tiki kitsch has not gone without notice. In what has become an alien subset of the re-tooled mid-century modern movement over the past decade or so, the cult of Tiki has easily taken on a more exposed role.

A certified design fad by the 1940s and 1950s, the Tiki “wave” was prominently imported by U.S. military personnel stationed throughout the South Pacific during World War II. Think early Waikiki, Palm Springs, Rat Pack-era Las Vegas, Hollywood’s infamous eatery Don the Beachcomber, and Victor Berger’s eventual institution Trader Vic’s (and their noted Mai Tai cocktails). In cities and suburbs nationwide, humble neighborhood Tiki bars sprouted exponentially, the lure of Polynesia’s exotica a genuine movement in American popular culture.

As the decades past by of course, such bygone tokens gradually lost their luster, sliding into relative decay, from trendy to tacky. That is until recently, as America’s long-lost Polynesian affair is being revisited, and thankfully revamped.

Like mid-century modernism has for some time now, Tiki is gaining street cred once more. Phoenix, once itself a mid-century haven, dotted with Tiki bars and similarly themed restaurants, has recently become blessed with renewed (and revisited) examples. Apparent by the growth in loyal popularity of Downtown’s Bikini Lounge over the past 10-15 years (the last original Tiki bar in Phoenix), Scottsdale’s Drift Lounge, and of course, the return of Trader Vic’s at Scottsdale’s Hotel Valley Ho, Tiki nostalgia is becoming ostensibly refreshed.

The latest local example borne of this re-examined trend is Hula’s Modern Tiki, one of Midtown’s most highly anticipated new restaurants, set to open in merely weeks. The California-sourced eatery (like-minded locations exist in Monterey and Santa Cruz) has gradually been taking form along Central Ave., just north of Highland.

The original structure, pre-construction. March/April 2009.

The innately odd, standalone structure currently being overhauled and expanded, with its unmistakably large, floor-to-ceiling hexagonal picture window abutting Central Ave., is encircled by equally noble neighbors. Sharing respectable real estate with the likes of Lola Coffee and Haus Modern Living, the circa 1960s shopping center, itself once a dated afterthought, has recently become quite the hub of hip Midtown commerce.

The original concept for the Hula’s locations in California was the brainchild of brothers Chris and Craig Delaney, accomplished designer and restaurant biz veteran, respectively. After settling down in the Monterey area a little over a decade ago, the pair eventually joined forces, in that city opening their first Hula’s. Thereafter, eventually opening a second, similar restaurant in nearby Santa Cruz. Up until a few years ago in fact, the idea of opening a restaurant in Phoenix was a thought never even imagined. That is until Phoenix-based Dana Mule literally walked through the door.

“I used to travel extensively on business. I spent time each year in Pebble Beach, many, many nights enjoying the food & frivolity of Hula’s Monterey. I always thought it would do well in Phoenix,” Mule admits. “In February of ‘06, I mustered the courage to approach Chris about coming here to open a Hula’s with me.”

And, so it began. After subsequent chitchat, and routine hops between Monterey and Phoenix, the deal was essentially made, and the foundations were set for the three men to open a restaurant in Phoenix. “The bond was immediate,” says Mule. “I finally physically drug them out here in March ‘08, and within a week we had solidified our plan to open this restaurant.”

Thanks to Mule’s dedication of course, before the Delaney brothers even set foot on Phoenix’s soil, the local enthusiast had already spent his time and efforts searching the city for possible locations. “It took almost a year and a half to find the right spot, we probably looked at over 50-plus options in all areas of metro Phoenix,” Mule points out. “We wanted a place that had that perfect combination of older architecture, great visibility, community and soul.”

Initially in fact, the trio had their sights set on the old Katz Delicatessen, the historic mid-century building now home to the sparkling Postino Central. “We found Katz Deli and did a ton of research on the area prior to putting in an offer. After losing it, we knew that the North Central corridor was the area we definitely wanted to be in,” Mule adds. “Then we stumbled on 4700 (N. Central Ave) one day last August, and, the rest is history.”

Though the new restaurant will be connected in spirit to the two Hula’s in California, don’t expect a clone. “This incarnation of Hula’s is completely unique to this market,” says Mule. “The space will pay subdued homage to its Tiki foundations, but with a slick, urban twist to better reflect the new location. We’re attempting to create a warm space that has a cool mid-century vibe.”

Sounds good to me.

Food-wise, Hula’s Modern Tiki promises casual “modern island fare,” initially serving dinner only. Expect diverse options to be served, similar to its California restaurants. Sandwiches to sashimi, steaks to poke, and influences Chinese to Thai, American to Latin, Hula’s intends to cover multiple bases. Check out sample menu HERE.

The new space will also feature large bar and lounge areas, as well as an expansive outdoor dining space. The latter of which, during Phoenix’s more pleasant months of weather of course, will be accessed courtesy of large rolling, garage-like glass doors.

As of post date, Hula’s plans to open Monday, September 28st. As new information arises, I’ll will try keeping everyone posted. In the meantime you can check out Hula’s construction progress online, with photo updates, etc., on the restaurant’s blog HERE.

Hula’s Modern Tiki | hulasmoderntiki.com | 4700 N. Central Ave | Midtown Phoenix

* All photos and artwork sourced here, courtesy of Dana Mule’s expressed permission.

Update 08/16/2009: The restaurant is now officially closed.

During these unusually restrained times, the Phoenix area is abruptly losing yet another solid restaurant. At least, in location and exact likeness.

Sol y Sombra, the acclaimed, stylish tapas restaurant helmed by celebrated local chef Aaron May is the most recent eatery to shutter its doors in what has become a very long line – one particularly lengthy in the city of Scottsdale itself (see: Sea Saw, Tapino’s, Canal, Mandala Tea Room, among many others).

For May, this is actually a twofer, as it was just a couple of days ago that local chatter ignited with the abrupt closing of his other, younger restaurant Autostrada, the hip, casual Italian spot also located along DC Ranch’s Market Street.

May reports this was largely in response to an invariably slow summer season (recession enhanced, of course) at the upscale suburban shopping plaza, and subsequent failed lease negotiations with property owner DMB Realty.

No doubt, Market Street’s remote, suburban location coupled with an extremely wilted regional tourism industry (a factor that weighs particularly heavy with Scottsdale) was an instrumental element not only in the demise of these two once-popular restaurants, but for the entire plaza as well. At its peak just a few years ago, Market Street was one of the area’s premier dining destinations.

Luckily this is in no way a death knell for May. Thanks in large part to the revered restaurant’s loyal following, he hopes to relocate Sol y Sombra (or some version of it) to a new location in the coming year, either elsewhere in Scottsdale, or in Phoenix. Let us not only hope this happens at all, but while we’re relegated to such juicy speculation on where it may find a new home, let me submit my vote for Phoenix. (Just throwing it out there.)

Overeasy and The Lodge, May’s existing (and more centrally located) restaurants, are reportedly performing well. In addition to a possible relocation and re-opening of Sol y Sombra, the chef has confirmed to be entrenched in multiple plans for other new dining ventures. Notably, the yet to be titled gastropub in Old Town Scottsdale due in October, and two Downtown eateries, inside the massive mixed-use development Cityscape near Central Ave and Washington St., slated to open by spring of next year.

As always, stay tuned.

Sol y Sombra closes this weekend, following its weekly brunch service on Sunday.

Five Guys Update 11/16/2009: First Arizona location in Mesa (Dana Park Village Square; SWC U.S. 60 and Val Vista Dr) is now officially open. Second location on Mill Ave. in Tempe opens next week.

Smashburger Update 10/07/2009: First Arizona location in Tempe (777 S. College Ave.) is now open.

Residing in Phoenix, one thing locals quickly learn to take on their collective chins is the unending procession of new, often toneless corporate restaurant outlets. Though this is obviously a global phenomenon not limited to Phoenix, it unfortunately seems to be of larger proportion here. In any event, it’s another chain alert. Something is afoot in Phoenix, and by this time next year, In-N-Out Burger may be in for some heady competition.

Things seem quiet now, but Phoenix and the state of Arizona are about to become engulfed in the next wave of the fast-food hamburger. Aiming for “better burgers,” two high-growth, higher-brow burger chains are currently knee deep in development plans to saturate the region, each with their individually unique brands of smarter convenience food.

If things unfold as planned, Virginia-based Five Guys and Colorado-based Smashburger could be opening a combined, upward total of new burger outlets in the ballpark of 75-plus. Though locations are being thrown around for spots throughout the state, the majority of these new-fashioned chapels to the beefburger have their targets set firmly upon the Phoenix market.

On the high end, we will always have our 25 Degrees, our Delux, our Big-Ass Burgers from Roaring Fork and American Wagyu Bar Burgers from Bourbon Steak. However in the more speedy, low-fuss realm of beef ground and round, up until recently the area has largely been under the So-Cal hex of In-N-Out Burger. And while the iconic chain will fair just fine when the dust settles, it is in for a legitimate run.

Five Guys

By far one of the most anticipated chains to (finally) land in Phoenix is Five Guys Burgers and Fries. What began merely a decade ago in the Washington D.C. area, the spare, cheeky hamburger outlet has since grown very rapidly, liberally accumulating critical kudos from food press along the way. What has since transfixed much of the Northeast and Midwest, is most recently, quickly moving west. Thankfully and curiously, during my recent New England holiday, I was finally able try it.

Though not as pared down as In-N-Out’s, Five Guys maintains an equally efficient menu. Burgers (never frozen) are divided into essentially two categories, regular and “Little.” Utilizing equal-sized buns, all regular hamburgers consist of two patties each, with singles for the little burgers. Including standard accoutrements like lettuce and tomato, Five Guys also offers a large selection of additional toppings to be added by request at no additional charge like onions (raw or grilled), mayo relish, jalapeños, grilled mushrooms, BBQ sauce, and so on. In regard to their “100% angus” burgers themselves, one thing of note is their ample patty size. In comparison to other fast-food varieties (yes, including In-N-Out), they offer a portion much heftier.

Not opting for the ground round? Five Guys also offers kosher hot dogs, and a grilled cheese sandwich, both of which come with the same selection of optional, no-cost toppings. In terms of french fries, Five Guys offers regular “Five Guys Style” and “Cajun Style.” The latter simply being a more seasoned variety of the regular, as spicy heat does not exist. All are fried entirely in peanut oil – free of any feared trans-fats.

As a sideshow, self-serving stations of in-shell peanuts are setup throughout each restaurant. Tubs of the classic, salted nuts are offered complimentary. A gimmick for sure, but something different nonetheless.

All in all, I liked Five Guys a lot. My double-patty cheeseburger was tasty and substantial, with a sufficient hint of grease – like a proper burger should. Though all burgers are uniformly cooked well-done, I was surprised by the flavor that remained. With my own additions of raw onion, jalapeños and their mayo relish, well, I was in an improved fast-food state of mind. I found their thicker-cut fries (both types) crispy and sufficiently salty from first taste, to last crumb. Despite the hurried atmosphere of a no-frills diner, after first sample, I immediately understood I was eating a product of superior quality and taste.

Though the Five Guys entry into the Phoenix market has largely been kept to a hush, I can tell you from several sources in the local construction industry that the company is currently in development to open an eventual 50-60 stores throughout Arizona over the next several years. (Yikes, I know.)

The first two confirmed locations, Mesa’s Dana Park Village Square, and along Mill Avenue in downtown Tempe, in the space recently vacated by the now defunct Coffee Plantation, are both expected to open by late fall.

Smashburger

Nearly simultaneously, another upcoming (and more publicized) entry into the Phoenix market is Smashburger, a growing national chain hailing from Denver, CO.

Though focused like Five Guys, Smashburger presents a more diverse menu of burgers (also never frozen; poundages 1/2 and 1/3), chicken sandwiches, hot dogs, salads, and a variety of sides beyond the french fry. Notably the additions of onion rings and, interestingly enough, veggie frites, a side of fried asparagus, green beans and carrots. There is also a line of milk shakes, malts, and a root beet float, courtesy of Häagen-Dazs ice creams for dessert. There is also a special menu for kids.

Most strikingly, unlike nearly all of its rivals however, Smashburger serves alcohol. Besides beer in both mug and pitcher form, Smashburger also serves a limited selection of wines by the glass.

Smashburger’s outlets themselves angle toward design more modern and polished, with noted flair in painting and lighting touches. This is as opposed to Five Guys, which presents a more straightforward, no-frills persona.

Smashburger’s first Arizona location is already being prepped for Tempe near University Dr. and College Ave. It will be the first Smashburger location of a planned 30 locations throughout the region over the next five to six years.

When it comes to the tried-and-true hamburger, particularly the fast-food variety, the subject easily summons strong allegiances. However whether or not you swear to the likes of In-N-Out, for example, more variety is still coming to Phoenix. If there is a silver lining, this new onslaught will thankfully deliver more than just raw numbers of new corporate burger establishments. In the continued, faddish vein of the more creative, “better burger,” we might actually get some improved quality as well.

As opening dates draw nearer, I will try my best to report any new developments.

For those on a tireless crusade for the absolute best in grub, finding prime regional seafood on the Cape will not happen without effort. To the stalwart chowhound in fact, trying to slice through the monotony may border on aggravation.

For those not well versed on the area, one can drive for hours – down, up and across the Cape’s tangled web of narrow highways – routinely stumbling upon collections of seafood restaurants at each stretch, and curve. Between this often overwhelming fact and the explicit proclamations by nearly every one of these eateries, having “the best chowder,” or “award-wining lobster rolls,” or “best seafood on the Cape,” tossed around like Monopoly money on every roadside sign and inside every tourist rag (even indiscriminately stamped across nearly every respective restaurant’s dinner menu), process of elimination here can prove more daunting than satisfying.

Simply put, do your research. Inquire with a respectable source. Not finding the right seafood restaurant on the Cape can transcribe to eating food that is more akin to Red Lobster, than anything one might have imagined. However as mentioned earlier, maybe glazed tourists wouldn’t realize anyway.

New on my restaurant radar this summer was Sesuit Harbor Cafe in Dennis. One of those quintessential Cape Cod dining experiences, it was worth the hunt. If I used a star rating, I’d bestow it many.

Overlooking dreamy Sesuit Harbor, sequestered at the end of a quiet, manicured residential area, the eponymous cafe is not centered in a nexus of commercial activity. Its rather concealed location was something mildly agitating to my party at first, however something that soon only added to its charisma once found. Centered in a massed boat yard, surrounded by alleys of large tri-level boat racks, the building itself is a tiny gray, weathered structure, trimmed with old buoys and crowned with a large white canoe atop its roof. Ample (though cramped) parking exists to one side.

There is no dining space inside Sesuit Harbor Cafe. The interior of the small, sea-christened structure only houses the kitchen and the main counter. Nearby, a large blackboard prominently hangs, listing both staple menu items and daily specials.

Spread outward, along a generous gravel-floored patio crammed with long wooden picnic tables, the picturesque (and no fuss) outdoor dining space overlooks the small harbor and channel. The level vista affords front-row seating to light boat traffic, traversing back and forth to Cape Cod Bay just to the north. It is precisely the laid-back, seaside eating experience many only read about. On days with optimal weather, the view is pleasant – if not perfect.

As the food churns out, the eternally young and efficient waitstaff, carrying multiple orders in hand, walk out onto the patio calling order numbers. When digits are heard, hands are raised. Silverware exists in plastic form, and at each table, giant rolls of paper towels exist in place of napkins. On a golden Cape Cod afternoon, nothing could seem more perfectly effortless.

Echos throughout the area tell of Sesuit Harbor Cafe’s fantastic lobster rolls. Similar with finding other epitomical eats of the area, notably clam chowder, fried clams, oysters of all persuasions, scallops, etc., cutting through the hype can be bothersome. I am happy to confirm that yes, they do in fact serve one of the area’s best examples.

Amassed on toasted bun (“toasted” immediately becoming an oft-uncommon plus) atop slices of summer tomatoes and a simple layer of greens, the perfect ration of both chunky and shredded lobster meat sat perfectly cooked, ocean sweet and just flicked with mayonnaise. Braided within the hearty haystack of lobster meat and mayo were bites of celery. While purists will often scoff at simple additions of celery or onions, insisting “meat and mayo only,” if not in large quantity (read: used as filler in place of lacking lobster meat), I find the added snap of celery’s mild, crisp manner only helps to enhance the overall texture of the sandwich.

In regard to eating lobster rolls throughout coastal New England: don’t be blinded by grotesque portions of lobster meat aloft a roll. Quantity in meat does not always translate to quality in meat. Many eateries will serve heaps of lobster meat so overcooked, with its rubbery texture so oft-putting, it fundamentally kills the experience (and sometimes paid expense) of enjoying a great lobster roll. What’s most unfortunate is that a vast majority of these perpetrating restaurants pack in such hoards of frothing tourists, satiating their super-sized oriented appetites with “lobster,” that there is little incentive to genuinely improve their product.

In addition to hefty portions of rubbery, overcooked meat, the amount of mayonnaise added to the mix of a particular lobster roll is another red flag. “Kissed,” a common menu term used to illustrate the portion of mayo added should illustrate the perfect amount. Unfortunately at most places however, it’s more like slobbered. If I wanted to eat mouthfuls of mayo, I’d stay home and graze from my fridge. Not only does it disrupt the texture of the meat, it also masks any hint of sweet lobster flavor. Maybe for those less-inclined to eat seafood, mayo might act as a lubricant to more substantial intake, but if I’m paying upwards of $15-20 for a sandwich, anywhere, gulps of Helman’s is the last thing I want to experience in such majority.

Rolls of lobster kind.

Back to Sesuit Harbor Cafe, their example of a great New England lobster roll does not succumb to these pitfalls, and is as close to perfection as I’ve found in a very wide radius. Never gloppy, perfectly cooked and portioned, its rivals in the area are few.

Each of their rolls are served with the obligatory accompaniments, french fries, pickle and coleslaw. Not drowned in a milky pool of sog however, their respective slaw in particular snapped as it should and was seasoned correctly – slight tang, easy on the sugar and satisfyingly salty. At many restaurants an otherwise afterthought, at this restaurant: a perfect side dish.

Other specialties, though I did not try them all personally, looked every bit as delicious. Though sight is often too superficial a barometer, let me still note that besides the lobster rolls, their fried clam platter in particular, was equally as popular of a menu item. For those not on the trail for great seafood, Sesuit Harbor Cafe also offers a selection of deli sandwiches, burgers and varied locally-sourced baked goods.

A few other things about Sesuit Harbor Cafe deserve brief highlighting. In addition to its previously noted, hidden location, the establishment is cash-only. And, there is no ATM on site. Thus, make sure to stuff your wallets in advance. My party and I learned this the hard way, after finally locating the place unknowingly cash-less, having to then leave the premises in search of a machine. In the event of a monetary crisis such as this, the nearest is located about a mile back toward the the Town of Dennis, inside the small corner food shoppe at the intersection of Route 134 and 6A. Also, there are no in-house restrooms. If absolutely necessary, such relief can be found at a collection of (well-maintained) port-a-jons near the main parking area, within the boat yard. I’m reporting this arguably trivial detail out of learned sympathy – not empathy. (I can hold it.)

And lastly, the establishment is BYOB and observes operating hours from “dawn until dusk.” Hard to vouch for anyone else, but I’d imagine turning in the day with nice bottle of red wine over a casual harborside dinner here would be a pretty sublime experience.

In a seafood-dominated region saturated with “world famous” this and “best in the universe” that, it is refreshing to discover and patronize such an unmatched, mellow jewel like Sesuit Harbor Cafe. Absent of kitsch and tack, everything about the place reads of subtle charm and “Cape Cod” authenticity. On exceptionally beautiful days, when the sun is out, water breezes whispering through the trees, harbor buzzing with activity, it is simply an un-replicated experience.

You bet I’m still dreaming of my return.

Sesuit Harbor Cafe | 357 Sesuit Neck Rd | Dennis, MA

Highland Light, Truro, MA.

As all good things demand completion, my annual summertime holiday to the New England seaside nirvana that is Cape Cod has concluded. Though it’s always sad to leave, I thankfully return bearing replenished spirit, motivation, and more than anything, a satisfied belly full of sea-sourced eats. Oceanic goodness of course, that I will highlight in subsequent entries.

In regard to this absence, as each new Phoenix summer presents itself, with its uniquely blistering, oppressive brand of heat, life in this city becomes increasingly harder to withstand.

As a young child, remedies for the searing summertime onslaught often seemed so elemental. Entire afternoons were spent floating in the backyard pool, bumping around on the Slip ‘n Slide with varied neighborhood chums, or chain-sucking my way through family-sized boxes of Otter Pops, the cranked kiln that is Phoenix’s summer sky seemed never to phase.

Unfortunately, tricks like these have become far less effective with age. Sometimes getting away is the only answer. Much like snowbirds who make annual winter pilgrimages to destinations south and west, here in Phoenix I yearn for such respite on the opposite end of the calendar. Notably, May through September.

Though I don’t currently enjoy the flexibility in life to accommodate such long annual excursions (someday), my wayfaring ritual to New England every month of July definitely helps to mitigate some of my summertime dread and angst.

New England-style clam chowder. Captain Parker's, Yarmouth, MA.

Lobster roll heaven. Sesuit Harbor Cafe, Dennis, MA.

Incredible cream. Falmouth, MA.

Decent wine tasting. Truro, MA.

Though I would readily wither away the remainder of my life along those breezy, grassy beaches and charming seaside villages of Cape Cod – stuffing my face with hearty chowders, fresh-peaked shellfish, regal homemade ice creams, and one-to-many “world famous” lobster rolls – I earnestly admit I had a jonesing to return home.

(Weather never taken into account, of course.)

If for nothing else, this blog. Lately in Phoenix, if beloved restaurants aren’t suddenly throwing in the towel (Sea Saw, Tapino’s, Fine’s Cellars, to name just a sample), exciting new spots are incessantly buzzed about, with a particular niagara of eateries beginning to debut over the next few months alone. In less words, I cannot wait.

In finality, during this particular breather, big thanks are deserved for all of the positive feedback and e-mail I’ve received due to my absence. If anything, motivations for this website have definitely been fortified.

* Now accepting donations, via PayPal. Working freelance has many perks, but dry spells definitely exist:

Yes, I know. A new chain has landed in Phoenix. And what a surprise, it has California tags.

Though it should be obvious, up until now I haven’t specifically addressed my own personal sentiments in regard to corporate chains or franchises.

My general tenet is not so much anti-chain, as it is pro-independent, and locally unique. In small defense of (some) chains, I do feel that there are simply too many exceptions in the anti-chain argument to be entirely stonewall about it.

In terms of sheer quality, flavor and general character, avoiding corporate outposts whenever possible, for the most part, is a standard rule of thumb for myself. With that said however, it can still frequently be a case-by-case basis, as I do occasionally find worthy chains out there presenting unique concepts and serving noticeably high-er quality food.

I often find myself enjoying places like Sauce, Chipotle, Gelato Spot or Pita Jungle. Though arguably watered-down culinary experiences in many cases, I don’t feel entirely ashamed to say that I patronize them.

One such chain I like is frozen yogurt heavyweight Red Mango. Founded in ‘02, and originally harking from South Korea, the now California-anchored company is finally making its Phoenix area debut.

Pomegranate.

Though its upbeat and more health-conscious brand of fro-yo has been copied over the years by many (Pinkberry, cough), Red Mango does present some differences in product.

The company goes noticeably out of its way to serve not only non-fat yogurt free of any additives, but unlike some of its newer rivals, also a product that is certified gluten-free, and kosher.

Not to mention, it couldn’t be tastier.

Flavors include pomegranate, green tea, citrus and plain. You can then choose from a catalog of toppings, ranging from granola, fresh fruit, and those more lighthearted like Cap’n Crunch and Fruity Pebbles. Yes, children’s cereal alert.

For myself, I generally opt for the subtle tanginess of plain, as a neutral, complimentary base, and building up from there with varied toppings. I tend to feel too much “excitement” in the flavor-toppings department can often lead to jumbled mess of flavors. I’m much more conservative with toppings when choosing one of the specialty flavors, like green tea or pomegranate for example.

But hey, not here to preach about frozen yogurt.

Red Mango also offers “blenders,” their version of a smoothie, blending a fro-yo flavor of your choice with any number of selected toppings.

If its first outpost in NE Phoenix/Scottsdale performs well, Red Mango says they will waste no time in expanding statewide. A second location is already in the works for east Mesa’s Dana Park Village Square.

Though it makes me cringe a bit, the company hopes to eventually open an additional twenty stores throughout Arizona within the next three to four years.

Again, it’s always bittersweet when the product is good.

As long as a location Downtown (or Midtown) materializes, I will be happy.

Though it’s novelty will wane slightly, Red Mango is a corporate brand worthy of some of our praise and interest. It’s really, really good tasting stuff.

Red Mango quietly opened its doors recently, ahead of its official “grand opening” events, set for June 20th.

Red Mango | RedMangoUSA.com | 7000 E. Mayo Blvd | Northeast Phoenix | 480-585-3000

A recent roadside pit-stop in Hannagan Meadow, AZ.

Don’t call it a comeback.

Suffice to say, it’s due time these tasty little sausages received some extra love and attention. Our burger-dominated world has all but suffocated the hot dog.

Now relegated to the back corners of questionable delicatessens, urban food carts, stadium takeaway, and being the go-to quick fix for soccer moms galore, hot dogs have taken a virtual back seat in our ever-evolving culinary consciousness.

Don’t feed me bullshit about how you don’t eat hot dogs because they might contain varied, surly pig parts, or how you “don’t eat pork,” when you honestly have no religious convictions against it.

Food shouldn’t be scary. So, get over it.

I personally prefer myself a pork filled casing, and there should be no excuses to the contrary. Without being laboriously professorial, pork hot dogs are okay to eat, and in fact, are often substantially more flavorful than other meat varieties.

Trust me, try one.

Pork aside however, from franks all-beef, to those kosher, turkey and veggie, there is still no reason the downtrodden hot dog shouldn’t (or couldn’t) be as popular or “trendy” as their fellow ground and bunned rivals.

In an era where gourmet burger bars are the ultimate in trend-dom, it’s sad to see hot dogs continually placed on the proverbial back shelf of Americana. Hot dogs can be just as white collar.

As a little Justin who ate, I grew up on the real deal. Though in the beginning I admit that I liked my links “plain, with ketchup only please,” I have since evolved into a full-blown wiener disciple.

Hot dog talk, don’t get excited.

The perfect frankfurter should have a firm casing that gives a light snap when you bite into it, and a rush of smoky, sweet and salty as you ingest it.

Personally, I love everything on my dog. Mayo, mustard, ketchup, chunky dills, onions, sauerkraut, hot sauce, you name it – I’ll top it, eat it and love it.

Politically, I also equally support our country’s most prominent regionals. It can be a Chicagoan, a thickly frank covered in a variety of chunky, hearty accoutrements, the more sparely topped, thin and extra-long New York version, or the ever-growing Arizona contribution to the national hot dog scene – a Sonoran Dog. Always wrapped in bacon, and sometimes covered with jalapeños and pinto beans.

The Sonoran Dog (Mamta Popat/Arizona Daily Star)

I also love a good chili dog – extra spicy, with a heaping blend of ground meat, onions and kidney beans, touch of mustard underneath, and smothered with cheddar on top.

I’ve expanded my borders across the Pacific, going slightly Asian, with a touch of good Chinese mustard, scallions and a lengthy drizzle of Sriracha.

Like I’ve always contested, gluttony as a cardinal sin needs revisiting.

Without further hesitation, for sheer versatility alone, I hearby bestow the homely hot dog as this week’s GOTW.

May it hold its head high, rising from its lowly social castings, and re-take its rightful place in our culinary heritage.